Not normally being one for what would be known here in UK as a “safety sally” I’m now going to start a tablesaw safety topic.
I have being using table saws in one form or another since I was about 15 and before that assisting my dad with the out feed and in loading since I was about 12 years of age so I know many tricks to getting the job done.
In the early days before I had a spindle moulder we would cut all the big rebates, Cill boards, housing joints etc on the table saw often this required removing the riving knife and crown guard but this is ok as most of the time the blade is covered by the work piece.
Well as soon as the riving knife is off the saw it has the potential for the kerf to close and the piece to kick back. On my rip saw I can make a double cut with knife still in place but it can still kick the work piece up in the air.
Well Friday I needed to cut some rebates with a sloping bottom to them and was hoping to recover the bead also. I cut the original groove in the rail with the router as it’s set up in the right place thanks to having used it for the curved top rail so I set up table saw including removing the knife and crown guard I set the tilt and the height and made the cut.
As I got to the last 5mm of cut the kerf closed and the bead was ripped off the work piece and like an arrow flew across the workshop hitting the laminate covered worktop on the bench at the back of the shop the force of the impact was such it broke a chunk out of the worktop. It also smashed through two plastic containers at the same time.
I’m well aware of this sort of thing and generally stand out of the line of Fire!
I shall be ordering a slitting saw for the spindle moulder very soon and will be on the hunt for a tilting arbour machine also when funds allow.
Tags: table saw
Dreaming of a sawmill, feels like a museum. Thanks for looking Adam.