Advice on finishes required

Forum: Woodworking

Does any one on this site have information on linseed oil paints? I’m trying to finish all my joinery in natural finishes I can cope with shellac and have landed in a really nice marine grade clear coat that’s not loaded with solvents but in recent years since being diagnosed with Rinitus and having had problems with paint finishes and contact dermatitis I’ve decided to stop using solvent laden paints as they make the lining of my nose burn.

Had a customer refuse the linseed paint even though it’s the best on the market opting for a dulux paint that is full of plastic polymers and solvents by the looks of things now this is where the problem occurs I’ve got to aleast prime the rebates on these doors and I’m not keen to use this stuff and also really not keen on the effect plastic based paints have on timber as they do not breathe panels often crack once it’s applied.

The customers only problem with the linseed paints is they don’t dry straight off or so the guys at dulux have told him. Hence I seek knowledge

Tags: finishing

Dreaming of a sawmill, feels like a museum. Thanks for looking Adam.


10 0
Share Tweet

10 Replies

Madts ...

In the old days you could buy accelerators and such for oil based paints. Now I don’t know. I would do a google search.
Good luck. I have used them and they worked for me.


Whitacrebespoke ...

From the research I’ve done UV light is the safest way to accelerate drying I will have to find an old sun bed I suppose.

Linseed paint is the way I plan to go but will need a drying room as I can’t have the down time in current workshop. A shipping container I think.

I’m tired of come backs with plastic paints.

Kelly ...

My first DIY exterior house paint job was with a big name brand sold by Sears. That was about forty years ago. I remember the contents, clearly, stated it was boiled linseed oil based paint. It held up for decades. So you might look down that road a bit.

Kelly ...

I would think the same accelerators sold for raw and polymerized tung oil would work to speed things up. Then there is Japan dryer. Of course, those things must be used in minimal concentrations.

I don’t know if those are the things you’re trying to avoid.

For some exterior applications, I’m playing with the mix of pine tar, turpentine and linseed oil (equal, across the board mix). It’s showing a lot of promise, which makes sense, since it held up good on WWII gun stocks and the pine tar kept canoes afloat.

That gives you a satiny, gripable finish, but could be overcoated with something else.

Whitacrebespoke ...

Yes linseed finishes seem to provide the correct answer for long lasting safe finishes. Just the dry time to sort out.

Apparently from recent research you can rejuvenate a linseed paint by applying more linseed to the finish.

Kelly ...

Since you mentioned marine grade, are you talking exterior? If you are, as I suspect you know, linseed oil stinks, until it’s tampered with.

Whitacrebespoke ...

Never had a problem with the smell. I use or used to in massive quantities as it’s really the only stuff to use on green oak

Kelly ...

Ha! Sorry. I meant the other kind of stinks, as in doesn’t hold up to the elements well.

The one place I know of, where they used straight boiled linseed oil, was on windows. You’d apply it to the raw wood, just before you applied the glazing, which protected it from abuse, while it sealed the wood and it’s oil kept the wood from drawing all the oil out of the glazing.

Whitacrebespoke ...

I see what you mean. Yes modern paint does stink!!!! My plan was to use linseed paint I could prime with linseed oil so all my glazing rebates door panels and grooves could be coated and the doors then built and every else then coated and it could go out the door. Now I have to apply 3 coats of my clear coat to the edges of the panels and the rebates (3days to get it all done and for it to dry) then I can put them together.

Add to all that these plastic based paints don’t allow the timber to breathe and the panels crack.

Madts ...

I use a jar/container in my shop that has disk of bees wax covered with linseed oil.
I dip a rag into this stuff after it has been soaking for about a week, to use as an all purpose finish.This is a very nice finish for my needs. Replenish as need. Takes time ti dry though.